Cutting up a whole beef tenderloin for the grill

Beef fillet is a classic cut for grilling, tender, juicy, well marbled; takes minutes to grill; withstands cooking to any doneness, even well done. It is also the most expensive cut of beef. So what you do when you want to grill fillets for a small crowd?
You buy a whole tenderloin, and cut your own fillet medallions.


This small tenderloin, a little over 4 pounds, gave me 12 5-ounce medallions, plus ends and trimmings to use for Stroganoff or other stir-fries.
It costs $30, or $2.50 per serving.


I based my preparation on a recipe for “Beef turnedos wrapped in sage and bacon” from my favorite cookbook Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way. The recipe was designed for a cast-iron skillet set over a wood fire. However, since the bacon that we get here in the States is always smoked, just wrapping the beef in bacon gives it a beautiful smoky flavor, even when cooked on a gass grill.


I used Trader Joe’s uncured bacon.

Now, Trader Joe’s meat department, I have a question: Why, while even the smallest beef tenderloin makes 12 servings; why does your package of uncured bacon only contain ten slices?

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Location:Redwood City, CA

Do not compost

I didn’t say this! By all means, please do compost! It’s economical, fun, good for your garden and for the rest of the planet. However, I’ve noticed that people get carried away, and put on the compost pile things that should go in the pot and on the table. Please, do not compost these, give them a try:


Beet greens. They are sweet, tender, and full of vitamins. Why would you toss beet greens, and then go and buy Swiss chard? It’s actually the same plant, except the beets were bred to have larger roots, and the chard was bred for the leaves. Clean the beet greens carefully, then use in braised greens dishes, add to borscht, or sauté in olive oil and toss with pasta.


Radish and turnip tops. These greens add wonderful, slightly spicy flavor and tons of vitamins to any dish where you would use other leafy greens. Or roast radishes or small turnips with the greens attached, for added textural interest.


Outer green cabbage leaves, cauliflower, broccoli, and kohlrabi leaves. These can be tougher than the cabbage heads, so they take longer to cook. On the other hand, they have higher concentration of vitamins and minerals than white cabbage heads. When braising cabbage, start with shredded outer green leaves, give them 15 minutes head start, then add shredded white or red cabbage.


Or, remove the thick center veins from the leaves, blanch them in in boiling water or steam in a microwave for about 2 minutes, refresh under cold water, stuff with your choice of seasoned cooked grains, meats, and vegetables, roll into tight parcels, place in a baking dish with chicken or vegetable broth, tomato sauce, sour cream, or a combination; bake uncovered at 375 degrees until tender and beginning to turn golden. Serve with the pan sauce.


Broccoli stems. Peel them, cut a slice and try it raw – you’ll be surprised. It’s the best part of the broccoli! If anything is left after you tried them raw, slice them and steam in a steamer or in the microwave, together with the florets, 4-5 minutes. Refresh with cold water, toss with your favorite salad dressing. My current favorite is 1 Tbsp almond butter, 1 tsp tamari soy sauce, 1 Tbsp olive oil, 1/2 tsp white wine vinegar or sherry vinegar, enough water to thin, salt and pepper. Top with dried cranberries, sliced almonds, toasted hazelnuts, sunflower seeds, or whatever you like.

Carrot tops. They taste like a carrot with a hint of parsley. They can be tough, so cut them finely and add to braised greens, soups, or pasta sauces in the beginning. Give them time to soften, and they will give your dish additional tasty goodness.

When making chicken or vegetable stock, carrot and onion trimmings, parsley stems and roots, green parts of leeks, kale stems, cabbage cores, leafy celery tops, small cloves from the center of a garlic head, lemons halves squeezed for juice, mushroom stems, bottom parts of asparagus – all add flavor, color and nutrition to the stock. Make sure that the vegetables are well cleaned. Simmer them in the stock for about 30 minutes to extract the flavor. If you are making a vegetable stock, after straining it, you can still compost the vegetables.


I’ve listed vegetable parts that I’ve been using in my cooking and enjoying for a long time. There may be other neglected edible plants or plant parts out there. Please do your research before attempting to cook and eat anything new. Our goal is to get taste and nutrition, not to get sick.
Do not try to cook with the greens from tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and other members of the nightshades family – they can be poisonous.

Braised mixed greens
This is a “loose” recipe, with lots of possible variations. I have made it with or without meat; with wine, different types of vinegar, and apple cider; using almost every leafy vegetable on the market. Taste as you cook. Note that chickories will add some bitterness, and chards and beets will add sweetness; adjust the seasoning.

Wash your greens well. Don’t waste time on drying then: any water clinging to the leaves will help them cook.

Serves 4
2 Tbsp olive oil
2 ounces bacon or pancetta, thinly sliced (optional)
1 large red onion, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 bunch black kale, stems removed, torn into bite-size pieces
1 bunch red kale, stems removed, torn into bite-size pieces
Tops from 1 bunch of turnips, with stems, chopped
Tops from 1 bunch of carrots, thick part of stems removed, chopped
1 cup not too fruity white wine (Italian pino grigio works well)
Salt, pepper

In a large, deep sauté pan heat oil over medium heat. Add bacon or pancetta, if using, brown, stirring often. Add onion, cook, stirring, until soft and beginning to turn color. Add garlic, cook another minute to soften it. Start adding greens in batches. The greens will shrink, giving you room to add more greens. Stir to help the greens to shrink evenly. Add wine. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low to maintain slow simmer. Simmer until the greens are tender, 30-45 minutes. Remove the lid. Taste, season with salt and pepper. If there is a lot of liquid remaining on the bottom, cook uncovered until almost all the liquid evaporates. Serve as a side to pork, sausage, or chicken, or over white beans or pasta.

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Location:San Rafael, CA

What I love about being a personal chef #2: Variety

Monday: East Mediterranean menu, calorie count
Tuesday: Vegetarian family menu; plus, a dinner for 6 in the evening
Wednesday: Healthy family meals with few restrictions, plus baby food
Thursday: Organic semi-vegetarian family menu, plus baby food
Friday: Strictly organic gluten- and dairy-free menu with multiple restrictions
Saturday and Sunday: I grill for my boyfriend and I.


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Location:San Francisco Bay Area

A menu and pictures from the last week

Last week was very busy. I was trying to squeeze in a dinner party in the late afternoon after a full-size family meal service, driving to serve clients from San Rafael to Cupertino, and everywhere in between. I did take a few pictures with my iPhone in the process, and here is one of my menus from the last week, illustrated:


Soup
Corned beef and cabbage soup
Salad
Zucchini and daikon, lemon vinaigrette
Main
Poached sturgeon
Ham, mushrooms, and Manchego frittata
Duck legs with figs and port
Beef and cabbage rolls

Sides
Wild rice
Sautéed potatoes and mushrooms
Beans and peas ragout

Cauliflower gratin


Cauliflower gratin. I steamed cauliflower florets until almost tender, seasoned with salt and white pepper, added cream, topped with parmesan, baked at 400 degrees until golden.


Duck legs with figs and port. I made a lot of them recently. This is a delicious dark meat, a revelation for those tired of the omnipresent chicken. To melt out some of the fat, I first sauté the legs over medium-low heat, then pour off the fat, add sweet onion, figs, port, and herbs, and open-braise the bird in a 375 degree oven until melting-tender, about 1 hour. Open-braising preserves the crisp skin.


Ham, mushrooms and Manchego frittata. This dish is equally good for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. I’ve added pea greens in this version, for color and texture.


Beef cabbage rolls. Russian classic, from my childhood.


Another Russian classic – sautéed potatoes with mushrooms. The simple secrets of sautéing potatoes are to cut them into uniform pieces, turn often, and salt only when they are almost done. Sauté the mushrooms separately. Salt at once, give them enough time to release and evaporate all the water, add minced garlic and thyme leaves. A drop (just one!) of truffle oil won’t hurt.


Young fava beans just hit the market. Now they are so tender that they don’t need to be double-shelled. Other participants in this emerald green spring ragout are pea greens, snow peas, blue lake beans, English peas, red onion and purple garlic.


I poached sturgeon and turbot steaks in court bouillon, strained the bouillon, poured it over the cooked fish, topped with steamed julienned carrots, celery, and leek.

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Location:San Francisco Bay Area

Last dinner on the Titanic

“Inside this floating palace that spring evening in 1912, warmth and lights, the hum of voices, the gay lilt of a German waltz – the unheeding sounds of a small world bent on pleasure” – First-class passenger Lady Duff-Gordon

On April 14, 100 years after the first technological catastrophe of the modern era, sinking of the Titanic, we attempted to recreate a part of the last dinner served to the first class passengers. The original menu from the first class dining saloon survived, and the authors of the beautiful book “Last Dinner on the Titanic. Menus and Recipes from the Great Liner” did a great job of restoring the recipes, based on memoirs of the survivors, period recipes from upscale restaurants and hotels, and educated guesses. They also restored the menus from the a la carte restaurant and the second- and third- class dining rooms.

The first class menu included 11 courses, with a few selections in each. For our small party of five that would be too much, both cooking and eating; I decided to make a few dishes from that menu as close to the original as I could, in memory of the chefs and cooks who went down with the Titanic on that terrible night, and serve it in the period style and using the period dinnerware.

Many thanks to my dear guests for their company, excellent wines, photographing the food (I would never manage it myself, running around serving eight courses of small portions), and help with the dishes, that are, in the best Edwardian tradition, not dishwasher safe.

R.M.S. Titanic

Dinner menu
April, 14, 2012
First class dinner saloon

Canapé a’l Admiral
Consommé Olga
Chicken Lyonnaise
Asparagus salad, champagne saffron vinaigrette
Beef fillet Forestier
Cheeses and salumi, fresh fruits
Madagascar vanilla ice cream
Chocolate pudding

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Location:San Rafael, CA

Menu today

It’s cold and raining again. I dream of hot summer days and colorful vegetables. I fight the urge to include tomatoes, peppers, and figs in every menu. No success. Today’s menu has two entrees and a soup that include tomatoes, and a vegetarian version of stuffed peppers. The menu for tomorrow includes figs (dried).

Corned beef and cabbage soup
Greens and beans with tomato sauce
Whole-wheat penne with garlic and olive oil
Quinoa-stuffed bell peppers
Orange and fennel salad

Coq au vin
Braised leeks
Chili con carne
Rice and beans
Sweet potato puree with apple, for the baby


I blanch cored red and yellow bell peppers in boiling water for a few minutes, run them under cold water, stuff with a mixture of cooked quinoa, sautéed carrots, onions, celery, mushrooms, and garlic, then bake them in 400 degree oven until completely tender and beginning to broun.


Leeks are the softest and the most sophisticated taste in the onion family, they are excellent braised to a melting tenderness, and they are very good right now. The trickiest part of cooking leeks is cleaning them. There is dirt between the layers of leaves. Cut off and discard most of the green top and the roots. Cut the leek in halves lengthwise. Spread the leaves open, wash under running water, holding the leek upside down and rubbing the leaves to remove dirt.


I brown them in a skillet in a mix of olive oil and butter first, then arrange them in a baking dish with some sliced shallot and thyme, salt and pepper, pour a little white wine on them, then cook, uncovered, in a 300 degree oven, until completely tender, 30-40 minutes. Delicious.

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Location:Cupertino, CA

Pictures from my cook date today

Chicken with peppers, sweet onion, and Meyer lemon, seasoned with salt, pepper, chili flakes, thyme, oregano and bay leaves, ready to go into the 400 degree oven:


Chicken is ready. I added olives during the last 5 minutes of cooking, just to warm through:


Poaching black bass in aromatic broth made with white wine, lemon, carrot, parsley and parsley root, garlic, bay leave, and black pepper. The head of the fish adds body to the broth, character to the photo, and makes a good snack for the cook afterwards:


Spinach and feta quiche. Does it look like a little sun to you?

Note: the pictures were taken with my iPhone during preparation of 5×4 with side dishes plus soup and baby food family meal package in their relatively small kitchen. Please forgive the picture quality, I’m doing my best.
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Location:Cupertino, CA

Today’s menu, vegetarian


Root vegetable soup with spinach and dill

Bulgur with radishes, spinach, and pine nuts
Roasted carrots

Steamed broccoli with chickpeas and mushrooms
Cucumber salad with yogurt dressing

Quinoa-stuffed peppers
Roasted Brussels sprouts

Braised collards and radish greens with garlic and white wine
Green beans with lemon and garlic

Bulgur with radishes, spinach, and pine nuts, a Whole Foods recipe, is my current favorite vegetarian dish. The interplay of textures and the harmony of the flavors make it perfect, served hot or at room temperature.

Radishes spell early spring, and right now they are the best: juicy, crunchy, spicy-sweet, and inexpensive. Besides the favorite bulgur dish, I added a few carrots to the roasting Brussels sprouts (winter meets spring), and used the greens for the braised greens dish. The client requested collards and turnip greens; but wherever I went, turnips were sold already trimmed, but the radishes were proudly displaying rich fresh green tails, so I made the substitute.

In making this menu I used my client’s Blendtec blender. In the blender competition between VitaMix and Blendtec, I clearly prefer VitaMix – after all, I own one! But Blendtec comes close second. It wet-chops vegetables for the mirepoix just a bit slower than my VitaMix, and mixes the salad dressing just great.

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Location:Palo Alto, CA

Using kitchen technology, today’s menu

My Burlingame clients love a good kitchen gadget even more then I, and I get to play with their gadgets on a regular basis.

Besides the Tec super grill that I use in summer to prepare whole menus, they have a bread machine and a VitaMix blender. And of course they have a microwave oven, that most people use just to reheat food, but in fact it’s an excellent tool for steaming small amounts of vegetables too.

Today’s menu was prepared with extensive use of their kitchen technology.

The menu:

Soup
Borscht; whole wheat piroshki with mushrooms

Main
Garlic shrimps
Quinoa pasta with chicken, mushrooms, and vegetables
Pork tenderloin roast
Beef stir-fry with spring vegetables

Sides
Roasted beets
Sautéed greens
Broccoli salad with cranberries and hazelnuts
Brown rice with garlic and herbs

Borscht is a delicious, but very labor-intensive soup, and using VitaMix to prep the ingredients cuts the manual work by 50 %.

The bread machine kneads and raises the whole-wheat dough for the piroshkis, while the blender chops the mushrooms, garlic, and onions for the filling.

I blanch broccoli, green beans, asparagus, and other green vegetables in the microwave to make them soft without losing their vibrant green color before adding them to the stir-fry, pasta sauce, etc.

Recipes to follow.

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Location:Burlingame, CA

Today’s menu, vegetarian

Green pea soup with garlic

Buckwheat kasha with mushrooms
Cabbage and carrot slaw

Whole-wheat pasta with beans and greens
Broccoli salad with hazelnuts and cranberries

Red bean and walnut stew with cilantro
Brown rice with garlic and herbs

Leek and potato frittata
Roasted root vegetables

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Location:Palo alto, CA