Turkey and tomatoes

I live too close to the hills.

The little neighborhood is squeezed in a valley between the hills. And the hills think that they own the place. The coyotes cry in the hills every night, the hawks fly overhead, looking for rabbits. The rabbits and deer on the road keep me alert when driving at night. I got a whole range of birds in my backyard; from hummingbirds, to finches (who destroy the vegetables seedlings), to the mourning doves (three generations hatched in my garden shed so far), and now, the turkeys.

Last week wild turkeys from the hills found a way into my yard, and destroyed all my beautiful tomato plants. I cried for a whole day, replanted the tomatoes, put a 3-foot high fence around them, and now I am offering turkey and tomato dishes to everyone, in a way of a revenge. It feels very satisfying to take the body of your enemy, ground, form it into bite-sized meatballs, and fry in oil.


Kids love meatballs, and because I make mine with lots of vegetables that enhance both their flavor and texture, parents love them too. And everybody like a food that comes with a story and an emotion.

I like to use quinoa cereal instead of the breadcrumbs to make my meatballs fluffy. Whole Foods sells it. If you can’t get this, use Panco breadcrumbs.


Turkey meatballs, tomato sauce
Serves 6

For the sauce:
2 Tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 carrots, coarsely grated
3 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 large can whole peeled tomatoes in tomato juice
3 Tbsp tomato paste
1 cup white wine

For the meatballs:
1-1/2 lb ground turkey (dark meat)
2 Tbsp tomato paste
1 egg
2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1 cup Panko breadcrumbs or quinoa cereal, more if needed
Salt, pepper

1/2 cup olive oil

Make the tomato sauce:
Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onion, garlic, carrots, and celery. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are soft and begin to brown. Remove half of the cooked vegetables to a mixing bowl, set aside to cool. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, and white wine to the pan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to maintain a slow simmer, cook, stirring occasionally, until most liquid evaporates and the sauce has good, solid texture, but not dry.


Make the meatballs:
Add ground turkey, tomato paste, egg, Worcestershire sauce, and breadcrumbs to the mixing bowl with the reserved vegetables. mix with your hand. Depending on the other ingredients, you may need to add more breadcrumbs or cereal to achieve a soft, pliable, but not runny mixture. Season lightly with salt and pepper.

In a large pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Dip your hands in cold water to prevent the mixture from sticking to them. Take a walnut-sized piece of the turkey mixture, shape into a ball, then flatten it to make a small patty. Cook briefly, turning once, until cooked through. Taste. Adjust the seasoning. Repeat, if necessary.


Shape the turkey mixture into walnut-sized balls, dipping your hands in cold water every time the mixture begins to stick. Brown the balls on all sides, shaking the pan or stirring carefully to rotate them. Remove the browned balls and place them in the simmering tomato sauce. Turn to coat, and simmer 30 minutes more.

Serve over pasta, rice, or mixed vegetables.

The rest of the menu on one of my “turkey and tomato” days:

Vegetable soup with pesto
Pan-fried cod, tomato and olive topping
Green beans and peas ragout
Spring onion tart with bacon and gruyere
Baby arugula salad with walnuts and goat cheese
Pulled pork
Roasted yams
Turkey meatballs, tomato sauce
Spaghetti with garlic and olive oil


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Location:San Rafael,United States

Winter menu for today

Our winter is mild, there is no snow, the mimosa is blooming, and we get a couple of hours of short sleeves almost every day. But by the dinner time it’s usually cold and dark. Dark, cold, and windy. Cold.

So here is a comforting winter menu that I cooked today. It’s full of hearty meats, mushrooms, citrus fruits that are natural antidepressants and are in season right now, and it even includes my Grandma’s meat pies, directly from Russia, recipe follows.


The menu:
Roasted vegetables soup

Salmon with lemon and parsley gremolata
Fennel gratin

Farfalle with creamy chicken and mushroom sauce

Roasted pork loin with honey and orange glaze
Braised red cabbage

Meat pies
Spinach salad with walnuts, orange, and goat cheese


The meat pies are based on my grandmother’s recipe for Tartar belyashi, or peremyachi, with a few changes made to accommodate modern Californian ingredients. They are a perfect accompaniment to any winter soup.


Meat pies
Makes 12

For the dough:
4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
2 packets active dry yeast
2 tsp sugar
1 tsp salt
1 egg
1-1/2 cup of warm water, or enough to form a soft, pliable dough

For the filling:
1 lb ground grass-fed beef
12 oz ground lamb
2 medium onions, minced
1 small bunch of flat-leaf parsley, minced
1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce, or to taste
Sea salt, fresh ground black pepper to taste

For cooking: 1/2 cup grape seed oil, or other high temperature, neutral-tasting oil

In a large bowl, combine flour, yeast, sugar, salt, egg. Add water, a little at a time, and mix with your hands to make a soft dough, about the texture of pizza dough. Knead for 5 minutes. Form the dough into a neat ball, put in the bowl, cover with a napkin, and set in a warm place to rise. After about 1 hour the dough should double in size. Pinch it back and fold 2-3 times. Let rise and double in size again.

Combine ground beef, ground lamb, onions, parsley, and Worcestershire sauce. Season with salt and pepper. Fry a bite-size piece of the filling and taste for seasoning. Adjust the seasoning. Divide the filling into 12 more or less equal portions.

Remove the dough onto a surface dusted with flour. Cut the dough into 12 equal portions; roll each portion into a ball. Roll out each ball into a 6-inch disc. Place a portion of the filling in the middle of a disk, gather the sides and pinch them together to enclose the filling, leaving a small opening in the middle. Flatten the pie with your palm into 1-inch thick disk. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. Let the pies rest 20-25 minutes.


Divide the oil between two large frying pans. Heat the pans over medium heat. Place the pies, open side down, into the pans. Cook until well browned. Turn over, baste with hot oil from the pans, cook until golden on the other side and cooked through, 10-12 minutes. Remove the pies to a paper towel covered plate. Let rest for 10 minutes before serving.

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Location:Palo Alto, CA

Sautéed potatoes with mushrooms


This is the ultimate Russian winter comfort food, and it’s very easy to make. The only secret is, the potatoes and the mushrooms have to be cooked separately, then combined just before serving. Why can’t we make it a one-skillet meal? Because the mushrooms need salt early, to help them release their water and become crisp; the potatoes, on the other hand, cook best without salt, that will make them break down and lose their shape, if added too early.

Here I made this dish with store-bought crimini mushrooms. Back in Russia we used any type of foraged forest mushrooms, with even more delicious results, or, in the middle of the winter, when no fresh mushrooms were available, we would rinse pickled mushrooms to remove the brine, and then proceed with the recipe.

I like to season my mushrooms with a little thyme, garlic, and fresh ground pepper. Most Russian cooks go for sautéed onions, and leave out the pepper. Try it both ways. Both are good.


Sautéed potatoes with mushrooms
Serves four

For the potatoes:
2 Tbsp olive oil
5 large Yukon Gold potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Sea salt

Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the potatoes, cook, stirring occasionally, until almost tender. Season with sea salt, continue cooking until cooked through.

For the mushrooms:
2 Tbsp olive oil
8 oz crimini mushrooms, sliced 1/8 inch thin
Sea salt
Fresh ground black pepper
2 large garlic cloves, minced
5-6 thyme sprigs, leaves picked, stems discarded

Heat oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, season generously with salt and pepper. Cook until the mushrooms release the liquid and it evaporates. Add garlic and thyme. Continue cooking until mushrooms and garlic are browned.

Combine potatoes with mushrooms, serve as a side to braised meat, or on their own.

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Menu today

OK, done with my sales pitch, now back to the kitchen. Today’s menu (without pricing; the pricing was, in fact, very similar to that in the previous post)


Cream of cauliflower soup

Cod with caper-tomato topping
Brown rice with vegetables

Dijon chicken
Quinoa with orange

Swiss chard beef rolls
Parsnip and carrot puree

Beef and beer stew
Garlic green beans


The cauliflower soup is a miracle: it actually tastes creamy, without any cream added. The pureed cauliflower does the trick. As a result the soup is rich, smooth, and very low in calories. If made without butter, it is also suitable for dairy-free diets, and still tastes great. It is also one of the simplest soups to make.


Cream of Cauliflower Soup
Makes a lot

1 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp butter (optional)
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 small parsnip, peeled and chopped
Sea salt
2 medium heads white cauliflower, leaves discarded, stems chopped, crowns separated into florets

Heat oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add onions, cook until soft and begin to turn golden. Add butter, if using. Add parsnip, cook until it begins to soften, 5-6 minutes.

Bring 4 quarts of water to a boil in a 6-quart soup pot. Add salt to taste. Add onions, parsnip, cauliflower, bring back to boil, reduce heat to low, to maintain slow simmer. Cook until cauliflower is very soft, 25-30 minutes. Puree in blender, leaving some chunks of cauliflower for texture, if desired. Adjust seasoning and serve.


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Location:Palo Alto, CA

Colors of winter


Short days, cold rains, the flu season… This is when we need more vitamins in our diet, to fight off this cold, and more colors on our plates, to add cheer to the long nights in front of the fire. Luckily, here in California, the winter farmers market supplies both.


Winter vegetables come in a palette of soft whites, muted purples, deep greens, and warm yellows; they go well with the gold of roasted chicken and duck, deep browns of braised meats, and the neutral tones of earthy grains. They prefer slow, thoughtful cooking techniques; they are complimented with sturdy winter herbs – thyme, rosemary, sage, oregano, parsley. Winter vegetables are full of vitamins, minerals, and micro-nutrients that help us survive the cold and boost our energy when we need it most.


Beets come in a rainbow of colors: red, pink, golden, white. Slice very young, tender raw beets for salads, both roots and tops. Roast larger beets for salads, soups, or to serve as a side dish: trim the greens, leaving 1 inch attached (save the greens to add to soups or braised greens), wash the beets, place them in an oven-proof dish, add 2-3 Tbsp water, cover with aluminum foil, roast at 400 degrees until tender (pierce with a wooden pick through the foil to check), 30-60 minutes, depending on the size; let cool, peel. The beets are complimented with balsamic vinegar, roasted garlic, truffle oil, thyme.

Broccoli adds emerald green color and a wealth of minerals to the plate. Separate the florets, peel and slice the stems, steam in a steamer or in a microwave until tender, refresh in ice water to stop cooking and to preserve the color. My favorite way to serve the broccoli is as a cold salad with dried cranberries and sliced almonds, with a dressing of almond butter, Tamari soy sauce, and olive oil.


Brussels sprouts like to steam, sauté, or roast. They are complimented by garlic, lemon (grate the rind over them, squeeze the juice), and mild olive oil.


Cabbage comes in green and red, and in plain and crinkled Savoy varieties. The large outer leaves, blanched, make wrappers for cabbage rolls, with rice, vegetables, meats, or anything. The tender center leaves go into soups and sautés. Green cabbages have an affinity with apples, pears, caraway seed, white wine, and onions. All cabbages go beautifully with bacon and smoked meats.


Carrot adds sunny color, sweetness and vitamins to everything it touches. There are white, gold, and purple varieties too. Love it raw!


Cauliflower is not just a white flower. It’s also gold, green, and purple flower! All colors do well steamed until almost tender, then sautéed, or prepared ou gratin. Cream of cauliflower soup is a life-saver for people who can’t tolerate milk products: the pureed cauliflower supplies the creamy texture, no cream needed.

Celery: the crunchy stalks are a perfect snack, great for dipping; the classic combination of chopped onions, celery, and carrot, sautéed in a mixture of olive oil and butter, can enhance any soup or transform a grain dish. Celery also makes a great soup on it’s own. Did I mention Bloody Mary?


Chard is a close relative of beets, and the leaves come in the same palette of jewel colors, and can be used the same ways as the beet tops. Steam, sauté, braise.


Fennel, thinly sliced, adds subtle anise flavor to salads, soups and stews. It’s also great prepared au gratin.

Garlic is love, and an indispensable ingredient in almost every savory, and some sweet dishes. Every time I heat up an oven to roast anything, I also toss in a head of garlic, wrapped in aluminum foil. Serve roasted garlic with a cheese and fruit plate, add it to mashed potatoes, spread it on top of steaks, mix it into sauces for roasted meats and vegetables. Large garlic cloves, sliced thin and fried in olive oil, make garlic chips, a nice garnish to meat dishes.

Grapefruit – juice it! This time of the year, we need tons of vitamin C, and the grapefruit delivers it, together with the tangy and pleasantly bitter flavor, and a wonderful aroma. Like most citrus fruits, it’s a natural antidepressant.


Kale is a leafy cabbage, and it works well in the same types of preparations. I love to use kale leaves to wrap rice, vegetables, and meats, to make kale rolls. I also like it braised with onion, bacon, and white wine. Black Tuscan kale, aka Dino kale, aka “the favorite”, is the darkest of them all, and has the deepest flavor and the highest vitamin content. It is friends with white beans, tomatoes, onions and garlic.


Leek, a mild, subtle green onion, works well in delicate soups. Also, try browning it in butter, than braising it with white wine and shallots, low and slow, until it’s melting tender. Addictive. The white part is to eat; I use the green part to flavor stocks.


Lemon, my second main staple after garlic, is indispensable with fish and shellfish; it takes any green vegetable dish to the next level (think garlic and lemon green beans, or Meyer lemon roasted Brussels sprouts), and it’s one of the best flavorings for a roasted chicken.


Mandarin: eat it out of hand, or add it to a green salad.

Onion, you already know… I like to marinate thin slices of red onion in 1 part sherry vinegar, 3 parts boiling water, with salt, sugar, and spices (whatever I’m in a mood for; say, allspice, cloves and cinnamon), to top burgers

Parsley root adds deeper, earthier flavor than parsley leaves to soups and stocks. My grandma always used the whole parsley plant, tops and roots, to make a soup. I like it her way. The root also roasts well, and is a nice, flavorful addition to roasted root vegetables.

Parsnip used to be a European staple food, before the potatoes arrived. It still mashes well, and a combination of mashed parsnips and potatoes is even better.


Potato. They say that the classic chefs toque has 101 pleats that represent 101 potato dishes that the chef knows how to make. I’m not there yet: I routinely make about 40 potato dishes. But my toque only has 17 pleats! I need a new toque. My latest favorite potato dish is smashed potatoes with garlic and herbs: boil gold, red, and purple potatoes until tender; let cool; mince garlic, thyme, rosemary, and parsley with some sea salt; spread the herb mixture on the cutting board; with the palm of your hand, smash the potatoes into the herb mixture; heat 1 Tbsp olive oil and 1 Tbsp butter in a large pan over medium heat; transfer smashed potatoes to the pan, cook until fragrant and golden, turning once.

Radish: winter radishes have thick skins and strong flavors. I like to peel them and cook them. Black Spanish and Watermelon radishes are great roasted.

Rutabaga: the big gentle “Swede” is sweet, and is at it’s best roasted, or as a puree.


Turnip is sweet and crunchy. Peel it and roast it, boil it, or sauté it, then glaze it with honey and apple juice, balsamic vinegar, or soy sauce.

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Location:San Carlos, CA

Eclectic early fall menu today

The chilled beet soup with horseradish sour cream (from Fine Cooking “Fresh”) is based on the Eastern European cold summer borscht recipe, but the addition of orange zest and juice (I used Valencia orange), honey, and the use of red wine vinegar instead of the usual distiller vinegar take it to another level. Roasting beets intensifies the flavor. If you think that you don’t like beets, and you only tried the tasteless canned variety, please, reconsider.


Get the beets with the greens still attached, trim off the greens, leaving 1 inch on, scrub the roots; place the beet roots with 1/2 cup water, a few thyme sprigs, and a few strips of orange zest in an ovenproof dish, wrap in aluminum foil, and place in a 400 degrees oven for an hour or so. Remove from oven, let cool, peel the beets with your (gloved) fingers. Taste the difference.


Chilled beet soup with horseradish sour cream
Serves four

1-1/2 lb. small or medium beets (2 bunches), trimmed, scrubbed
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
3 strips orange zest
3 sprigs fresh thyme
Kosher salt and freshly ground white or black pepper
2 Tbsp EVOO
2-1/2 cups chicken stock or water
2 tsp honey
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
2 Tbsp red wine vinegar

1 Tbsp prepared horseradish
1/2 cup sour cream
Cream or water as needed
Fresh dill sprigs for garnish (optional)

Bake beets and garlic with orange zest, thyme, olive oil, salt and pepper.

Peel beets and garlic. Discard orange zest and thyme, save the pan juices (strain).

Blend in batches beets, garlic, pan juices, chicken stock, honey. Stir in orange juice and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate.

Stir horseradish into sour cream. Thin with cream or water, if needed. Refrigerate.

To serve, ladle soup into bowls, spoon a little horseradish sour cream on top, garnish with dill.


Vegetable lasagna has layers of sautéed onion, garlic, eggplant, zucchini, and red bell pepper, layered with ricotta cheese and tomato sauce, with sautéed mushrooms and fresh mozzarella on top.

The menu:
Chilled beet soup with horseradish sour cream

Daal

Vegetable lasagna
Mediterranean salad

Mariscada
Spiced sweet potatoes

Chicken Marengo
Farro risotto with mushrooms

Stuffed peppers


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Location:San Francisco, CA

Indian home cooking, Part III

Today in my Indian client’s kitchen we were cooking some exotic vegetables that Alaka, her mom, bought at an Indian grocery store, and showed me how to prepare.

Indian eggplant is a cute little eggplant the shape and size of a small egg, deep purple color. Alaka got a dozen of them, we stuffed them with a mix made of grated peanuts and spices, and cooked with some water added to make a sauce. Here is a catch: Alaka uses her own goda masala spice blend, that she brought from home, and I don’t have the recipe for it. She promised to email me the recipe after she gets back home and gets it out of her files. For now, we tried to find an Indian store that carries this wonderfully aromatic blend of warm spices, and we failed so far… So here is the partial recipe, pending the recipe for goda masala to follow next month:

Stuffed Indian eggplant
Serves four to six

12 Indian eggplants, leaves removed
1 cup roasted peanuts, ground in a blender or food processor
1-1/2 tsp ground coriander seeds
1-1/2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp goda masala
1 tsp salt, or to taste

2 Tbsp olive oil
1 tsp brown mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp turmeric
1/2 medium onion, minced
1/2 cup water
1 Tbsp jaggery (raw sugar)

Chopped cilantro, to garnish

Cut eggplants crosswise into quarters, leaving the stem ends attached. Make the stuffing: mix ground peanuts, ground coriander, ground cumin, goda masala, and salt. Open each eggplant like a flower, and put a little of the stuffing inside. Press closed.


In a heavy pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add mustard seeds and heat until the mustard seeds start to pop. Add cumin seeds, turmeric powder, and onion. Brown lightly. Add stuffed eggplants, water, and leftover stuffing, season with jaggery. Cover and cook until the eggplants are very tender and the sauce thickens, about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Sprinkle with cilantro and serve.

Bottle gourd, or white gourd resembles a large pale zucchini. The simple preparation that we did is very characteristic of Alaka’s style of Indian cooking, and can be used with other vegetables as well. It starts with making tadka, the traditional flavor base of brown mustard seed, cumin, and turmeric. Then the vegetable is seasoned and cooked until tender.


Indian white gourd
Serves four

2 Tbsp olive oil
1 tsp brown mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp turmeric powder
4 white (bottle) gourds, cut into small dice
1 cup water
2 tsp goda masala
Salt to taste
2 Tbsp jaggery, or to taste
Chopped cilantro, to garnish

Heat the oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add mustard seeds, heat until the mustard seeds start to pop. Add cumin seeds, turmeric, gourd, water, goda masala, season with salt and jaggery. Cover and cook until the gourd is very tender. Serve sprinkled with chopped cilantro.

Bitter melon. This one is really, seriously bitter. They say it’s very good for you, and can be addictive. This recipe balances the bitterness with the heat of the chili and the sweetness of the raw sugar, which makes for a very strong and complex taste. It’s more like a condiment than a dish. It’s traditionally eaten with roti.


4 small bitter melons
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 tsp brown mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp turmeric
1-1/2 tsp chili powder
1 tsp salt
2 Tbsp jaggery (raw sugar)

Cut the ends off the bitter melons. Cut them in halves lengthwise. With a spoon, scoop out and discard the seeds. Chop into 1/4-inch pieces.


Make tadka: heat oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add mustard seeds, heat until the mustard seeds start to pop. Add cumin seeds and turmeric.

Add the bitter melon, chili powder, and salt. Stir-fry until the bitter melon is tender and begins to brown, about 10 minutes.

In a mortar, break down jaggery into very small pieces. Add jaggery to the skillet, stir, and let it coat the bitter melon and caramelize.


Menu today:
Curried carrot soup

Stuffed Indian eggplant
White rice

Pacific snapper with mango-tomatillo salsa
Bean salad

Scallops with feta and spinach
Roasted butternut squash

Mushroom and asparagus frittata
Heirloom tomato salad Caprese

Chicken roasted with fennel and apples
Fennel gratin

Indian bottle gourd

Bitter melon

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Location:San Francisco, CA

Indian home cooking, Part II

A few more recipes that I learned from my Indian client’s mom, not all of them spicy.


Vegetable curry

2 Tbcp olive oil
1 tsp black mustard seed
1-1/2 tsp cumin seed
1-1/2 tsp turmeric
5 medium potatoes, cubed
1 large eggplant, cubed
1-1/2 tsp ground cumin
1-1/2 tsp ground coriander
1-1/2 tsp goda masala
2Tbsp jaggery
Salt
Chopped cilantro, to garnish

In a heavy pan over medium-high heat heat the olive oil. Add mustard seeds, heat until the seeds begin to pop. Add cumin seeds and turmeric. Add potatoes; cook, turning, until potatoes are browned and almost cooked through, about 10 minutes. Add eggplant, cook until both eggplant and potatoes are tender. Add ground cumin, ground coriander, goda masala, and about 1 cup water to thin the sauce. Season with jaggery and salt. Reduce heat to medium, cook 5 more minutes. Sprinkle chopped cilantro on top.

Chicken fried rice

2 Tbsp olive oil
1/2 medium yellow onion, chopped
3 spring onions, white parts chopped (reserve green parts for garnish)
1 tsp ground black pepper
2 cloves garlic, grated
1 inch ginger, grated
2 chicken breasts, cut into bite size pieces
1 Tbsp soy sauce
1 green bell pepper, cut into short strips
1 carrot, cut into short strips
4 cups cooked rice


Heat oil in a heavy pot over medium heat. Add onions, cook until tender and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Add black pepper, grated garlic and ginger, chicken. Cook until chicken starts to brown. Season with soy sauce.


Add green bell pepper and carrot. Cover and cook until the vegetables are crisp-tender, 7-8 minutes. Add cooked rice, stir, top with chopped green onion, cover, let stand 5 minutes.


Spinach salad

2 bunches spinach, chopped, cooked, drained
1 cup yogurt
Salt
1 Tbsp brown sugar
Tadka: 2 Tbsp olive oil, 1 tsp black mustard seed, 1-1/2 tsp ground cumin, 1-1/2 tsp turmeric, 5 large cloves garlic, chopped, 4 red chili peppers, broken down, with seeds.


Lightly mash the spinach with your hands. Mix spinach with yogurt, season with salt and sugar.

Make tadka: Heat olive oil in a small heavy pan. Add mustard seed, keep heating until mustard seeds start to pop. Add cumin, turmeric, garlic, cook to brown the garlic. Add chilies. Brown lightly.

Pour tadka over the salad.


Salmon Bhapey
(from http://www.muslimrishtey.com/indian_food_recipes/indian_salmon_bhapey.php)
1-1/2 lb. thick salmon fillet from the centre of the fish, skinned
2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
½-1 fresh, hot green chilli, finely chopped
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
¾ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 oz. very ripe tomatoes, peeled and finely chopped
3 tablespoons mustard oil
1 tablespoon water


Cut the fish fillet into 2.5 cm (1 inch) squares. Grind the mustard seeds coarsely in a clean coffee-grinder or mortar.

In a shallow bowl large enough to hold the fish, combine the mustard seeds, green chilli, cumin, turmeric, salt, pepper, cayenne, tomatoes and mustard oil. Mix well. Add the water and mix. Add the fish and mix gently. Cover with a plate or aluminium foil and set aside for 10 minutes.

Place the covered bowl in the steamer, cover the steamer and steam gently for 10 minutes. Remove the bowl, toss its contents gently to mix, then cover the bowl and put it back in the steamer. Cover the steamer and steam for 10-15 minutes or until the fish pieces are opaque.


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Location:San Francisco, CA

Learning Indian home cooking


This month I started cooking for one of your typical international Californian families: the husband is from Hungary, the wife from India. Both love their native cuisines, and want to share them at the family dinner table, but with two little kids and two full-time jobs they of course need help cooking.

I have an extensive menu of Eastern-European dishes, including a few traditional Hungarian recipes, so I was able to satisfy the Hungarian side of the family just fine. My ideas of Indian cuisine, on the other hand, are limited to the menus of the local Indian lunch joints, and Californian dishes with “oriental” flavors. Luckily, the visiting Indian grandmother agreed to teach me a few traditional homemade dishes.

Today we had our first hands-on lesson:
Daal
Stir-fried cauliflower
Chicken curry

I was about to get lost in the family’s well-organized spice cabinet (that takes up an entire floor-to-ceiling built-in closet), when my teacher showed me a tin box with a few spices that she uses in everyday cooking.


Clockwise from the top: cumin seed, ground cumin, turmeric, black mustard seed, asafetida, ground coriander; center, red chili powder.

Tadka, the traditional flavor base, is made of cumin, mustard and turmeric, cooked in olive oil.

Daal:
1-1/2 cup yellow lentils

2 Tbsp olive oil
2 tsp black mustard seed
2 tsp cumin seed
2 tsp ground turmeric
8 dried curry leaves
8 dried red chilies, with seeds, broken up
About 2 tsp (1-1/2 inch piece) jaggery (raw sugar)

2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 small bunch cilantro, chopped, to garnish

Cook lentils in pressure cooker with 3 cups water until very tender.


Heat oil in a pot. Add mustard seed, cumin, turmeric, curry leaves, red chilies, cooked lentils. Add water to make soup consistency, season with jaggery. Bring to boil, add chopped tomatoes, bring to boil again, serve, garnished with chopped cilantro.

Stir-fried cauliflower:


2 Tbsp olive oil
2 tsp black mustard seed
2 tsp cumin seed
2 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp asafetida
2 cauliflowers, cut into bite-size pieces
4 fresh hot green chili peppers, with seeds
1 tsp salt

Heat oil in a large sauté pan. Add mustard seeds, heat until the seeds start to pop. Add cumin seed, turmeric, asafetida; add cauliflower, chilies, season with salt. Stir for a while, cover, reduce heat to medium-low, cook until soft and dry, stirring occasionally.


Chicken curry:
For the curry paste:
1 small bunch cilantro
1 small bunch mint
1 medium onion
4 large garlic cloves
3-inch piece of ginger
1 medium tomato
1 Tbsp black peppercorns
1 Tbsp cumin seed


Roughly chop all paste ingredients, combine in blender, blend into almost smooth paste. Remove paste from blender; rinse the blender container with cold water, save the rinsing water.


2 Tbsp olive oil
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into small pieces
1 Tbsp salt, or to taste
1 cup heavy cream

Heat oil in a large pan over medium-high heat. Add curry paste, cook, stirring, until it starts to brown. Add chicken. Cook, stirring, until chicken pieces turn golden on all sides. Add 1-2 cups water from blender, scrape the pan to deglaze. Cook until the liquid thickens, 10-15 minutes. Taste, add salt. Stir in cream, cook 5 more minutes, serve over rice.


Menu today:

Chicken soup with wild rice and mushrooms

Daal
Stir fried cauliflower

Leek and potato frittata
Garlic green beans

Baked cod with tomatoes and bell peppers
Cannellini beans with kale and tomato

Chicken curry
White rice, flat bread (store-bought)

Cabbage rolls
Braised cabbage with caraway

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Location:San Francisco, CA

It’s king salmon season!


It’s California king salmon season! Everyone here is excited about our local salmon. The market price reflects this excitement – the whole fish goes at $10.99 a pound, and fillets are $17.99 a pound. Bu the glorious fish is totally worth it, and we can afford it once a year, right?


The fishermen bring the salmon in early in the morning, it hits the Bay Area stores a couple of hours later, and then you have to catch it the second time: it’s usually gone by noon.


This morning I caught about 1.5 pounds of the freshest local king salmon fillets at Sigona’s Farmers Market in Redwood City. I cut it into 6-ounce portions, and made a healthy version of the classic salmon with dill sauce for 4.

Salmon with Dill Sauce
Serves 4

1 Tbsp olive oil
1 Tbsp butter
4 salmon fillets, skin on
Salt, pepper

6 oz plain Greek yogurt
1 small bunch fresh dill, finely chopped
2 strips of lemon rind, yellow part only, cut with vegetable peeler, very finely chopped
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt

Heat olive oil and butter in a large non-stick skillet. Season salmon fillets with salt and pepper. Place fillets flesh side down in the skillet; let them sizzle without disturbing for 2-3 minutes. Using a large spatula, carefully turn the fish over. Cook for 2-3 minutes more, or until just cooked through but still juicy.

Mix yogurt, dill, lemon rind and lemon juice. Season to taste.

Spoon the sauce over the fish, garnish with lemon slices and dill sprigs.


Other ideas for cooking your local fresh salmon:

Poach it. Prepare court bouillon with white wine, lemon, black peppercorns, carrots, celery, parsley, onion, bay leaf, and enough water to cover the fish, in a deep sauté pan. Simmer 20-25 minutes to extract the flavor from the vegetables, season to taste. Remove and discard the vegetables. Place the fish fillets in the court bouillon skin side down. Simmer until just cooked, about 10 minutes, more or less depending on the thickness of the fish. Serve in soup bowls, with strained court bouillon and julienned blanched carrots and celery.


Grill it. Season the fillets with salt and pepper, brush with olive oil. Grill on preheated medium grill until just cooked, 6-8 minutes, turning (carefully, with a large spatula) once.


Here grilled king salmon is served with grilled yellow squash and a sauce of fava beans with tarragon and lemon.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Redwood City, CA